A Jeep old enough to be my father takes us through the jungle and through a couple of streams before we transfer to a boat to cross a much meatier river. It's back in another 4x4 from there and into the Sal jungle (so named after the predominant tree type) and to the stilt-top residences. The two lanky buildings are separated by The Roundhouse, a Viking-style building with a log fire filtering up through the conical thatched roof. It's all located just on the edge of the jungle as it suddenly changes into fertile grasslands. This is tiger country.
We get back to the lodge and try to summon some kind of warmth into our bones, but it’s tough work, especially as our stilted accommodation runs on solar power. Shivering, we head back to the Roundhouse for some dinner and a talk with the owner. He looks a bit like Willem Dafoe and is in his late 30s. He’s also definitely a little bit mad, but when I find out his life story the next day, that becomes perfectly understandable.